Clickable map of our journey through Georgia
The history of Georgia is long and complicated. I have done a brief summary of their history, to try to get the present situation into context. Today the Russian army occupies Abkhazia and South Ossetia, and has done so since 2008. To the tourist, like us, there is not much evidence of a high tension border with Russia or either of the two Russian enclaves, even tough, as can be seen on the map above, we skirted both borders for large distances.
We went on to Armenia when we had finished in Georgia
We covered most of Georgia in 2 weeks. There are three UNESCO sites . Plus a number of others that are in the process of trying to get acceptance - over enthusiastic restoration with no professional backing has stopped many sites being listed.
Day 1 – Arrive Tbilisi
The largest city in Georgia by a considerable distance, Tbilisi can justifiably claim to be the heart of the country. Squeezed between mountain ranges, the city fills the Mtkvari river valley. Having been the capital of Georgia for more than 1,500 years, in some form or another, Tbilisi is rich in history. However, as a city that hints at a new-found wealth, Tbilisi is undoubtedly changing. New building projects have added a touch of glamour to this historic city and contrast with the narrow streets, unchanged religious buildings and caravanserais of the old town.
Day 2 – Tbilisi old town
A guided walking tour around old Tbilisi, taking in the fascinating history of this long overlooked region. We spend the day discovering sites such as the National Museum, home too many of the treasures that inspired the legend of the Golden Fleece, as well as the Narikala citadel, Metekhi Temple and the Sioni Cathedral, among other sites. Lunch will be taken in a restaurant where you can try out local cuisine. Also take the funicular to the park that overlooks the city. Overnight Hotel Vinotel
Day 3 – Tbilisi - Mtskheta - Ananauri - Gudauri
We drove to Mtskheta the ancient capital of Georgia situated 20km from Tbilisi. The town and its architectural monuments are listed by UNESCO. Visit Jvari Monastery 6th century and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral 11th century.
Then we journey along the Georgian Military Highway, the historical road leading north into the Caucasus Mountains. Stop at spectacular Ananuri fortress and admire the views. Continue snaking up into the mountains following the Aragvi River Valley too Gudauri resort.
Mtskheta Pronounced like 'skater' with the first two letters silent, Mtskheta is Georgia's spiritual heartland. Occupied for over 3,000 years, there is evidence of Greek, Hittite and Sumerian civilizations, and the hilltops around the town were the setting of several pagan shrines, which in later years had churches built upon the sites. The main cathedral of Sveti Tskhoveli was built in 1010 AD, but the first church on the site was constructed of wood in the 4th century AD. All the other churches in the town are on the UNESCO World Heritage list
The Georgian Military Highway has existed as a route since ancient times, but until the 19th century it was little more than a track. The Russians made it into a major road as an aid to suppressing rebellious tribes in the Caucasus, and the highway bores through mountains in a sequence of tunnels and climbs over passes frequently blocked by snow in winter. A viaduct leads to the churches of Ananauri, the larger of which was built in 1689, with elaborate carvings decorating the exterior. Overlooking the church is a 12th century watchtower.
Ananuri Fortress (16th - 17th cc) was the one time home of the tyrannical Aragvi dynasty and occupies a wonderful location overlooking the Aragvi Valley and Zhinvali Reservoir. Following the dramatic Aragvi River Valley we continue on towards Mtskheta, the capital of the Georgian Kingdom of Iberia between 500 BC and 500 AD. The town lies in a lush valley at the confluence of two rivers, the Aragvi and the Mtkvari. Mtskheta was founded 2,000 BC. Georgians adopted Christianity in the 4th c. and thereafter Georgians, Byzantines, Persians, Arabs and Mongols traded control of the territory until the Russian annexation in the 19th century. It is overlooked by the marvelously simple church of Jvari (6th c.), a perfect example of early Georgian Christian architecture.Also visit Svetitsikhoveli Cathedral (11th c.), Georgia's largest remaining Cathedral and burial place of the Georgian Kings, notably members of the Bagrationi family. It has an extraordinary interior combining paintings, frescoes and a domed chapel used for the Christmas service. They are both UNESCO sites.
Overnight Hotel Marco Polo at the ski resort of Gudauri
Day 4 – Gudauri – Kazbegi – Gudauri – walk up (or 4WD) to the spectacularly located Gergeti Sameba church. Also visit Dariali Canyon and optional visit to Sno Valley for a short walk 2 hours.
Traverse the Jvari Pass (2395m) and then down into Kazbegi (1700m). Walk up to the Gergeti Sameba Church beautifully perched on a hill providing splendid views of Mt. Kazbek. If you do not wish to walk then for an extra charge of USD 30 you can hire 4x4 cars for trip to/from Sameba Church). Continue to Dariali Canyon, a beautiful river gorge situated at the eastern base of Mt Kazbegi. Return to Gudauri. Overnight Marco Polo Hotel (BD) Optional: For an extra charge we can organise a 4WD vehicle to the beautiful Sno Valley where from you can take 2 – 4 hour trek to the Chaukhi Mountains.
Kazbegi. The most sizeable town in Khevi province, Kazbegi is nevertheless a small place with just over 4,000 inhabitants. There are a few shops and market stalls which mainly seem to sell knitwear, and one solitary restaurant. The real draw in Kazbegi is the Holy Trinity Church, sitting high on a ridge overshadowed by the looming bulk of Mt Kazbek, third-highest in Georgia with a summit reaching 5,047m. A cable car was constructed in 1988 but did not have the support of the local population, who saw it as an assault on the sanctity of the church, and it has since fallen into disrepair. The church itself is surprisingly large given the location - it sits 2,170m above sea level - and the main body of it was constructed in the 14th century, the tower added in later years.
Day 5 – Gudauri – Gori – Uplistsikhe – Borjomi - Bakuriani
We again cross the Greater Caucasus and drive south and then west to the town of Gori. Today the town is mainly known for its huge Fortress and as the birthplace of Stalin. We can take a look around the time and there is an optional visit to the Stalin museum (small local charge), particularly noteworthy for the train carriage that sits in the grounds that Stalin used to travel throughout Europe in .Gori A few kilometres off the main Tbilisi to Kutaisi highway, Gori is an undistinguished place with one main claim to notoriety; Stalin was born here, and the town has done its best to cash in on Georgia's most infamous son. The museum itself is enormous, and presents an interestingly skewed version of 20th century events. Stalin himself, we learn, was something of a prodigy, a talented poet, former editor of Pravda (a publication not known, admittedly, for its journalistic merits), and an all-round decent chap. Gori itself, like most of Georgia, glosses over any inconvenient facts about him, ignoring any genocidal qualities he may have had, and preferring to recall him as a strong leader.
Continue to Uplistsikhe cave town dating from the 7th Century BC. It contains a large central hall for pagan rituals, living rooms and a church from the 9th century.
Continue to Borjomi , a Soviet era spa town
Continue to Bakuriani (1800m) surrounded by the lesser Caucasus range. Overnight Hotel Crystal (BD)
Day 6 – Bakuriani –Vardzia – Kutaisi
Travel along the Kura Valley the cave monastery of Vardzia 12th Century. Visit Rabati Castle
A long travelling today so we start early. Travel along the Kura Valley to the cave monastery of Vardzia 12th century. Vardzia is a unique example of Georgian Renaissance and is associated with Queen Tamar and Shota Rustaveli, the author of the legendary poem "The Knight in the Panther’s Skin".Vardzia is an impressive site, with hundreds of caves hewn into the rocks to function as monasteries and churches. The cave city was first constructed in the 12th century by King George III but is nowadays mostly associated with Georgia’s most famous woman, Queen Tamar, who turned it into a monastery. In its heyday Vardzia contained stables, barracks, and stores, but it has suffered over the years from earthquakes and invading armies. What is left is still fascinating to wander around, with the Church of the Assumption being the main highlight and containing detailed frescoes of Queen Tamar herself.
On the way we visit “Rabati” the old part of Akhaltsikhe.
Finally continue to Kutaisi in the western part of the country. Overnight Hotel Argo (BD)
Day 7 – Kutaisi – Gelati Monastery – Mestia (Svaneti)
Visit the 12th Century Gelati Monastery before heading over the lowlands and then start to ascend via the Enguri River valley into the mystical province of Svaneti
This morning we drive to Zugdidi passing through the Colkhida lowlands and some typical local villages. We visit Dadiani palace and its museum housing some fine natural exhibits of Georgian culture. From Zugdidi we start climbing through the Enguri river valley and the Enguri reservoir up to Mestia situated at 1400 metres above sea level.
Mestia is the provincial centre of Svaneti. On arrival we will visit the iconic Svanetian defensive towers. Overnight Hotel Ushba (BD)
Svaneti, the mythological western province of Georgia, land of the ‘Golden Fleece’ (where locals still sift for gold through sheepskins) lies high up in the Greater Caucasus. Several 5000 metre plus peaks thrust glaciers down into this beautiful and remote region, where amazing stone towers rise up beside homesteads, some dating back to the 12th century. Never far away is one of Svaneti’s numerous, richly frescoed churches, focal points for lively communities where traditions have been preserved for two thousand years. Unique icons and manuscripts are on display in Mestia’s museum, overlooked by huge hanging peaks. Mestia is a well-known climber’s launch point and the dramatic trekking trails will appeal more to the adventure traveller.
The inhabitants of Svaneti make up their own distinct ethnic group, the Svans, with indigenous religious beliefs intertwining with Christianity to give them a very separate identity. The Svans have traditionally been fiercely independent, to such an extent that they expelled the local governor under the Tsar and functioned as an autonomous state for many years prior to Soviet rule. They have their own complex set of traditions and customs, and in the past have been known as an aggressive and hostile group, suspicious of outsiders. This is reflected in typical Svanetian architecture – huge watchtowers to watch for signs of intruders dot the landscape, most of which are 800-1000 years old. Svanetian hospitality is legendary within Georgia and while staying in local houses we can be sure to be treated to excellent food, and obtain a real glimpse into a lifestyle that is seldom seen by visitors.
Day 8 – Mestia – Spend the day exploring Mestia and the mythical watchtowers and traditional Svanetian house and the museum.
Mestia is a small provincial settlement surrounded by the imposing Caucasus Mountains, the most impressive of which are Ushba (4710m) and Tetnuldi (4975m) indeed some of the most beautiful summits of the Caucasus. We spend the day exploring Mestia and visit the towers, traditional Svanetian House and the Mestia Museum. Overnight Hotel Ushba (BD)
Day
Day 9 – Mestia – Ushguli – Mestia – Travel higher into the Caucasus mountains to Ushguli (2400m). See the medieval towers and visit Lamaria Church. Views of over 5000m peaks. Optional easy walking in the valley.
A morning drive to Ushguli village, the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe at 2400 metres. On the way we visit Nakipari church. On arrival in Ushguli we explore on foot, visiting the stunning medieval towers as well as Lamaria Church. If you wish and the weather is favourable you can take an easy hike along the valley leading to the foot of Mount Shkhara (5201m). We return to Mestia in the afternoon. Please note that the road today is of a very poor quality and as such it is necessary to drive very slowly to avoid damage to the vehicle. Overnight Hotel Ushba (BD)
Day 10 – Mestia – Batumi – Leave the mountains and travel to the Black Sea coast via Poti. In Batumi visit the old town.
This morning we descend from the High Caucasus to Zugdidi where we then journey along the Black Sea coast via Poti, the legendary land of Colchis from the Greek myth of the Golden Fleece. We arrive in Batumi and have a sort city tour and then there should be some time for you to spend at leisure. Overnight World Palace Hotel (B)
Batumi developed in the late 19th century as the western terminus of a railway from Baku that then carried one-fifth of the world’s oil production. A pipeline and refinery built by Ludwig Nobel, brother of Swedish dynamite inventor Alfred, soon followed. Batumi gained free-port status and became a fashionable resort at the southern tip of the Russian empire. In Soviet times the border with Turkey was closed, making Batumi a bit of a backwater, but it has since bounced back as a hub of tourism and since 2004 the seaside boulevard park and the old town have been tastefully renovated and make for pleasant places to spend time.
Day 11 – Batumi – Tbilisi - This morning visit the botanical gardens and afterwards travel back to Tbilisi. This is mostly a travelling day.
This morning visit the beautiful botanical gardens and afterwards travel back to Tbilisi. This is mostly a travelling day but there will be stops for comfort breaks and for photos. Overnight Vinotel (B)
Day 12 – Tbilisi – David Gareji – Sighnaghi – Kvareli
Continue to David Gareji Monastery, situated in the Gareji semi-desert, 75km southeast from Tbilisi. The monasteries were founded in the 6th century. Visit Lavra and Peristsvaleba monasteries. Walk up to Udabno Monastery to explore some of the fine frescos of the 8-13th centuries and cave architecture. Drive to Signagi, with its huge defensive wall built in 17th - 18th centuries. Here you will also visit a winery and take part in some tasting. Overnight Chateaux Kvareli (B) Note: Walking shoes/boots are recommended to walk up on some steep slopes up to the Udabno. (It depends on fitness as to how long it will take to walk up to Udabno caves, but it is approximately a 40 minute walk up, about the same to see caves and walking back to the vehicle will take around 45 minutes.)
The monasteries of David-Gareji were founded in the 6th Century by St David, and are located in a remote area of semi-desert on a ridge that forms the border with Azerbaijan. Once a thriving monastery it is now home to a smaller population of monks, with newer buildings complementing the small chapels hewn into the rocks. The caves contain a number of 10th to 12th century frescoes; some better preserved than others, and are slightly reminiscent of Turkey’s Cappadocia.
Day 13 – Kvareli - Kakheti province – Tbilisi – Visit Gremi architectural complex. Alaverdi Cathedral 11th Century, short sightseeing in Telavi, Tsinandali residence and if time permits Shuamta Monastery. Visit a winery around Telavi
Kvareli, Georgia’s renowned wine district lies due east from Tbilisi in a land dotted with fine old churches and vineyard after vineyard. Visit Gremi architectural complex 16th century. Continue to Alaverdi Cathedral 11 century. If time allows we explore Telavi and visit Tsinandali residence. Return to Tbilisi. Overnight Vinotel
Day 14 – Leisure day in Tbilisi to explore this lovely city at leisure
Enjoy a day at leisure in Tbilisi to explore this lovely city at leisure. Our team can of course provide suggestions for things to do. Overnight Vinotel
Day 15 – Tbilisi – Gyumri (Armenia) - Travel to the Armenia border. Meet our local team over the border in Armenia. Drive to Gyumri – Armenia second city badly affected by a devastating 1988 earthquake. City tour of Gyumri and the old town. Marmashen monastery. Overnight Berlin Art Hotel .
Day 16 – Gyumri – Yerevan – Visit Harichavank monastery. Continue to Talin and visit well preserved Dashtadem Fortress. Visit Armas winery set against the backdrop of Ararat, Ara and Aragats. Continue to Yerevan. Overnight Grand Hotel Yerevan
Day 17 Services end after breakfast