Fly across the forest to Fair View airstrip from where we were escorted to Iwokrama River Lodge. From here, depart by boat for an explore on the river and Lake Stanley to search for giant river otters (none seen) and black caimans. Later, transfer by 4WD to Atta Lodge.

Traverse the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, which had four suspension bridges leading to three platforms, the highest of which is over 30m above the ground. It only has 2 bridges today and is a bit of a mess

Drive to From Ginep Landing, board a boat for the trip along the Rupununi River to Karanambu. The surrounding landscape supports over 600 bird species, 200+ mammals and around 700 types of fish. Archaeological evidence also points to human presence here for more than 7,000 years.

Reach the hotel. As dusk falls, the giant Amazonica water lilies begin to bloom – their luminous pads unfurling in the fading light.

A vary early morning exploring the savannah in search of giant anteaters, often seen foraging among the termite mounds scattered across these sweeping grasslands. We found one scurrying fast across the landscape

Then another river outing. These areas are excellent for spotting bird life, including the elusive agami heron, seven species of nightjar, and the distinctive double-striped thick-knee.

Morning river excursion when we eventually found the Giant Otters before departing overland to Letham, and then fly back to Georgetown

We start with breakfast at a local food stand with Chef Delven Adams. He took us through Bourda Market – Georgetown’s largest – beginning at the Guyana Shop, which showcases locally made products. While the chef prepares our meal, we continued on a guided city tour. Highlights include the National Museum, and historic landmarks like Stabroek Market, City Hall and St. George’s Cathedral – one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world. We also visit the Botanical Gardens. Lunch at the Backyard Café – Chef Delven’s restaurant. After an early dinner, we flew to Paramaribo, home to over half the country’s population. A former Dutch colony, the city grew during the 17th and 18th centuries and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002, but this is now under threat. Its historic centre still follows the original street plan, with wooden buildings that blend Dutch design with local materials and techniques.

Guided tour of Paramaribo by car and on foot. There are 291 listed monuments in Paramaribo. We visited Fort Zeelandia, built in 1667, the presidential palace, and Independence Square, among other places. After a walk along the bank of the Suriname river and through the public park, known as the Garden of Palms.

We crossed the Suriname river and make a stop at Peperpot, one of the oldest plantations in Suriname, now a hotel. and not worth a stop. Our advertised lunch in a typical Javanese restaurant never happened. Travel on to the confluence of the Commewijne and Suriname rivers at Nieuw Amsterdam, finishing the tour with a visit to the outdoor museum in its large fortress. The mud walls have long since gone, so no fortress to see

Depart Paramaribo by clapped out bus with 13 Dutch speaking fellow tourists, and a guide who did not speak English. The bus got us to the tiny village and river port of Atjoni. There we got into a motorised canoe. A crew navigated us up the rainforest-fringed upper Suriname river – which is famous for its breathtaking rapids – to our lodge.

We visited the Maroon museum Saamaka, which is dedicated to the cultural heritage of the Maroon population and the history of the Maroons, their traditions and crafts.We never had a tour of the village, just walked through it to get to the museum

In the afternoon, a rainforest walk - never happened.

After dinner we saw a traditional dance performance. It comprised 12 ladies , mainly wiggling their bottoms, and was certainly authentic but we left when audience participation was required

Return to Paramaribo by river and road. Depart by dugout canoe from Danpaati to Atjoni. From Atjoni continue the journey back to Paramaribo by road.

Our fellow travellers consumed quantities of rum the entire time, and made a lot of noise in the bus

Travel to Kourou in French Guiana. The route follows the coastal road to the border town of Albina, where formalities were over bureaucratic and time consuming.

From there, we crossed the Maroni River by ferry into French Guiana.

On arrival in St. Laurent du Maroni, – we we oddly in the European Union.

Continue to the Guiana Space Centre to view a launch. We were impress by the launch of Ariene6

Hotel Atlantis

An early breakfast, then transfer to the dock in Kourou for the catamaran journey to the Îles du Salut – a trio of islands often collectively referred to as “Devil’s Island.” First stop was Île Royale, once part of a notorious French penal colony dating back to 1762. Then on to Île Saint-Joseph, known as the “silent island,” was infamous for solitary confinement, while the real Devil’s Island – where Alfred Dreyfus was held – remains off-limits due to hazardous surf. On Île Royale, we explored well-preserved prison buildings, an old church, officers’ quarters, and a small museum.

Returned to Kourou by catamaran and overnight Kourou

Quick tour of Cayenne, and a lunch in a very nice cafe

Depart from Cayenne. AF 857 14 FEB Cayenne (CAY) to Paris 1835 - 0715 next day