Sunday, 8th of February, Paramaribo
We arrived at the hotel at the dead of night. David had an altercation with the receptionist at the Eco Lodge here in the hotel wanted $100 deposit in case we broke up the room. It was 02.15 before lights out and we had to set the alarm for 7:30, not good
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An adequate breakfast, in somewhat cafeteria surrounds, and then we were picked up at 9 am by Randy. It was just the two of us in the car as Eric decided he needed a rest. Randy was a bit on edge because a motorcyclist had just run into the back of his car and he was unable to lock his vehicle. We drove down to the fort . The fort contained a museum comprising an old pharmacy plus many other rooms recording the history of the town but all the information was in Dutch. We had a walk around this and then through the surrounding area with many splendid wood houses. Then a drive past the cathedral and we stopped for a few minutes and looked into the Catholic Cathedral where a service was in process.
Paramaribo is UNESCO World Heritage, but this status is under threat because of mass tourism and development. The city is not currently on the "List of World Heritage in Danger," but UNESCO is closely monitoring it to ensure the very attributes that earned its status—its unique fusion of European and indigenous architecture—are not eroded by modern development and tourism pressures.
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After this we drove over the bridge and out towards another fort, New Amsterdam. The walls no longer exist as they were built of mud, but drone shots do show where they were. There was a World War II Otter tank and interesting barns were work had been carried out. Also the buildings of the prison that remained operational until the 1980s with solitary confinement cells and many interesting vehicles, like fire engines and horses.
Around this time Randy had purchased some snacks, misinterpreting our remarks that we did not eat very much for lunch, which was meant to be included on our tour. So we ended up with very unhealthy spring rolls, with very thick exterior of deep-fried carbs, and fried plantain as our lunch. We did not realise that it was indeed our lunch until an hour later when we had reached the plantation house which have been converted into a boutique hotel where there was indeed a very nice restaurant. But we were just invited to walk around the place so this was a bit of a disappointment, we then drove back over the bridge, constructed in 2000, and back to town arriving at the hotel by 2:30 pm. Hardly a full day tour that warranted the seemingly early start of 9 am after such a late night.
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We then found that our room had not been made up and on requesting a chambermaid that it should be so done we were informed that they only did service every three days. Chris got changed and went for a swim and then tried to have a brief siesta without success. At 5 pm we returned the towels to the desk 200 yards or so from the swimming pool, what bad organisation, and had a chat to reception about the extraordinary fact of service just every three days. We pointed out the fact that we had not been informed about this and there was nothing to say so in the room: but got little satisfaction just a constant repeating that this was a hotel policy.
We then went down to the bar beside the swimming pool and thoroughly enjoyed a Caipirinha and a margarita and then a mango smoothie and another Caipirinha. Meanwhile eating some bananas and some cheese rolls. Back to the room at dusk, which is around 7 pm here in Surinam, to read some more, to record this diary and enjoy the second club sandwich obtained the previous day.
And so for a very early night for a 5:30 pm rise breakfast at 6 am and to pick up at 6:20.
Monday Feb 9. Paramaribo to Danpatti River Lodge.
We left our room at 5 to 6 for a quick breakfast before being picked up, supposedly at 6:20. But at this time no transport arrived and at we contacted Shanette at 06.30. Eventually at 06.45 a man appeared and told us to follow him and round the corner of the building. There was a huge bus, not a car. In the bus we found Eric and we’re told that we were stopping to pick up another 13 customers. Not a good start for a day.
We eventually stopped at another hotel and picked up these people, all of them Dutch. The guide who had overslept, spoke limited English and attempted to give a talk to all the bus alternating in Dutch and English but we soon stopped him and told him not to bother with all his patter and just to tell us the important things relating to our journey. Sometimes he did this and other times not. After about 30 minutes on the road we stopped at a petrol station and we’re told that a lady had been left waiting at the Marriott hotel who was not on his list and that he had not found and that she was now in a taxi and we were to wait for her for up to half an hour. But we think the Dutch objected to this and eventually we moved on and we’re told that she would continue in the taxi.
After two hours we stopped for a restroom break which with somewhat prolonged and the reason for this turned out to be that the lady was approaching and when she reached the bus there were in fact, three people in her party somehow they managed to squeeze themselves and their luggage onto the already crowded bus.
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So we arrived at the village, where we were to board a dugout canoe just before 11 and we then were transported in 2 large canoes rather than a canoe for just two or three people. We boarded the slightly smaller one and sat at the front as I did not think I could climb over all the other seats backwards. Then all the luggage was put in the space in front of us and covered with a tarpaulin. The other six passengers reached the canoe by transferring from the canoe adjacent to us, so I’m glad I was spared that. We were then given a roll to eat and proceeded on our way down a river which was very peaceful, apart from two or three sets of rapids which somehow we managed to cross without amiss. We also stop briefly at our village to download some cargo for them.
We arrived at Danpaati at 1 pm and were given a welcome and some cold water, then shown to our cabin which was very simple but very agreeable, situated right on the river edge.
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A simple but good lunch at 1:30 was followed, eventually by being shown around the lodge by happy Harry. He preceded this by showing the schedule for the next two days on a blackboard, very sketchy. After this we tried their swimming pool. I did not find it very satisfactory, but then I showered and we went on to the deck on the river which was empty and very peaceful and agreeable having about six chairs on it.
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At 4:30 pm we joined a tour in a canoe. 13 of us in it to go up river for a swim. I thought I would be able to get off the canoe as we have been told it would be onto terra firma. Because the canoe stopped in such a way that it involved getting into the water as above knee level and proceeding onto rocks, I decided to stay in the canoe. The rest of them all disembarked most of them having proper water shoes and proceeded to frolic and lie in the rapids
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We came back within an hour and then went to the bar and had two cocktails. This was very pleasant and we took one of them back to the room and continue drinking it there until supper at 7:30 which again was edible but not memorable and was eaten in record time. Then a very early sleep after so many early mornings. During dinner the head lady of the lodge had come and offered us different tours for the morrow, so we hope that this will be more to our liking away from the group and happy Harry.
Tuesday, February 10. Danpaati River Lodge.
We enjoyed a cup of tea out on our Veranda between 07.00 and 08.30 and then went into breakfast to discover that most people had already finished breakfast, such is the confusion of times that exists here. A fairly non-committal breakfast was followed by an outing at 9:30 am with a guide just for ourselves. It involved a 20 minute cruise down the river and then ashore at a village through which we walked for another 20 minutes or so to their Maroon museum which was founded and run by five local craftsmen. Our guide gave a good description of most of the things in the museum and this was followed by visiting outside exhibits - sugarcane pressing houses and a wondrous wood factory which turned out beautiful products as well as building boats and furniture. But nobody was working the day we were here. The wood was extremely heavy and a lot of of the chairs and motors were just about unmovable. Then a walk back through the village to the boat and the return cruise which then went round the island as well it was gone 12:30 pm by the time we got back to base.
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A so-so lunch, just one course at 1 pm followed by a leisurely afternoon sitting on our veranda reading with a respite at the swimming pool and the river deck. The rest of the 14 in our group had gone out to the museum at 4:30 pm having done a hike in the morning. We were very grateful for our trip that was just us and the guide, but that was all we were allocated for the next 24 hours that was just relaxation. I had a quick swim in the pool and also walked and paddle along the sandy beach by the river deck.
Then at 6 pm two Strawberry daiquiris which were very strong and very full glasses. This would followed at 9 pm via a cultural show of local ladies doing African dances: we left when it degenerated into audience participation. We managed not to go to sleep before 10 pm for the first time in a while.
Wednesday, 11th of February Danpaati to Paramaribo
A day so peaceful in the morning and so noisy in the afternoon.
We enjoyed our tea on our veranda around 7:30 am and later at breakfast . We sat on the veranda then for the next couple of hours. We did not need to vacate the room until 11:30 am. So we went for a short walk down to the end of the island. At 11:30 am we took our suitcases along to the jetty and went to the River Terrace past the pool and sat there for half an hour before an early lunch.
The next group arrived by one p.m. and eventually we all took off in the same boat this time, 13 of us plus our luggage, at 1:15 . The journey was with strong sunshine and sharp showers and we had to put our anoraks over us. The boat hit some rocks at full speed at one stage, the boatman must have lost concentration completely. Marcel walked along the rim of the boat to push it off. But we think the Boatman had already managed to get off by himself. By then we arrived at the intermediate village and transferred to a coach. Here the group of the Dutch at apparently bought some rum and gave some to Marcel the guide as well. The result was a very raucous bus behind us and also Marcel yelling in creole across the bus to the bus driver who seemed equally noisy. Really gave me a headache trapped between the two sources of noise. Occasionally it would go silent and this was pure bliss.
As before we stopped for a toilet break and I think they bought more rum there. It rained considerably and the roads were very muddy. Once in the capital, the Dutch got Marcel to stop at a KFC and then we continued to their hotel, and then to ours. We offloaded the 10 of them at their hotel which in fact it’s not that far from ours.
Once back in a new room in the Eco Lodge, we sorted ourselves out quickly and went down to the scenic bar for two Caipirinha's and also we had a snack of prawns and carpaccio very enjoyable then back to the room for another early start. This time 6 am depart with a packed breakfast.