Makambako

Makambako was visited by Paul Theroux who in his book Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Cape Town described it not as a town but "a collection of hovels on stretch of paved road where idle people sat or stood."

The town of Makambako has seen fast development due to being the location where Songea Road branches off Tanzania Zambia Road (TANZAM). Presence of TAZARA railway station lead to establishment of police station, TAZARA workers quarters, development of TAZARA water intake at Bwawani which is now being developed by the government. Presence of Tanzania People Defence Force (TPDF) Legion. All these led to the influx of workers from different parts of Tanzania as a well as people from nearby villages to trade in the area. These development led to development of market, modern and local bars etc making it the business centre.

July 24, Thursday. Makambako, Tanzania.

We had another pleasant breakfast soon after eight and then retreated to our cabin until about noon when we had a stop at Makambako, a middle size Tanzanian town which is yet to enter the 21st century. We had an hour to wander around this town with loads of people and markets, many small computer shops and bicycle repair shops that dealt with really ancient bicycles. Chris found it hard to distinguish between the other shops.

The train staff were out in day glow jackets to assist us around the town but some of them had no idea of the geography at the town and the map we were given bore little resemblance to the truth on the ground. Back on board for a delayed lunch at 1:30. From this Chris proceeded to the observation lounge and David went back to the cabin to collect iPads et cetera, for an afternoon ensconced in the more pleasant of the two lounges. The scenery in the morning had been quite dramatic and our line ran over several bridges, with views over the treetops of the surrounds, also through many tunnels. Still not sure when the railway was actually built.

We are having a constant battle with our hostess Vivian as she does everything to rule, and puts all the things away that we want left out and a versa. This happens every five hours or so therefore it is not just a matter of leaving the cabin tidy for her while she does it during breakfast: a bit like having to tidy up for a cleaner back home. Dinner started with a too spicy Samos followed. by Rack of lamb, cheese, and a fairly awful ice cream sandwich as a pudding. Overnight we crossed into Zambia, so we gained an hour as Zambia is one hour back on Tanzania time.

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Rovos Rail trip

On to Chisimba Falls