About 250 km east of Algiers lies Bejaia. Far from the beaten track of Algeria’s tourist hotspots, this pretty seaside port is also one Algeria’s best. Overlooked by Yemma Gouraya – the mountain that take its name from its shape of a sleeping woman, and bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, this largish city has a deep and interesting history. As is the often the case with ancient cities, Bejaia is built on legend. The story is that Hercules, before travelling to Gibraltar to build Tangiers (and lay the foundations to which he left his name) lived in the large cave above the village. The townspeople of Bejaia, wanting him gone, prepared him a dish of spicy beans, so spicy that he had to descend the mountain to quench his thirst and disappear into the sea. Whether or not you choose to believe that Bejaia featured in Hercules’ 12 labours is up to you, but what is certain is that Bejaia’s (recorded) history can be traced to the founding by the Carthaginians in the 1st century BC.
The city was known as Saldae under Roman rule (200-500), and later became the capital of the Berber Hammadid dynasty. French colonial rule came in 1833 until independence in 1962. Bejaia’s old town is one of Algeria’s finest. A 16th-century mosque bears testament to the city’s Muslim past, as well as a Spanish fortress, also from the 16th century, and an old Kasbah.
May 22 . Unesco Roman Ruins Of “Beautiful” Djemila
Our goal was the breathtaking UNESCO site called Djemila, which means beautiful, marvel at the mosaics which are displayed in the museum. With just over 1000 square meters of mosaics, this represents the best collection in the whole of Algeria. You walk through this site and get an insight into the many well-preserved remains of a once buzzing Roman city.
View the Arch of Caracalla, the Forum, the Basilica and the Temples. Imagine the lifestyle of this ancient civilization whose architectural skills are today still looked upon as great architectural feats.
We departed about 8am for our 10 hour tour, scheduled 3 and a half hour journey time. Equipped with picnic bag. The mountains were welcoming. The police escorted us all the way with flashing lights, stopping local traffic at any roundabout that we passed. We , ran along the sea before turning inland. After 2 hours we stopped for restrooms, a mint tea and 2 delicious pieces of baklava.
An hour further on it was announced that we would be stopping for lunch, que?.. I thought this would be to eat from the packed lunches provided by the ship, really stupid as we could eat them in the coach, thus giving us more time at Djemila, but no, it was at a restaurant, but would only take 40 minutes, thus leaving us the princely sum of 80 minutes at the fantastic UNESCO site!,. Not amused.
It was indeed impressive, but we only had the 80 minutes there and the guide rushed us round it. Wondrous mosaics in Yuen museum at the end.
click on a thumbnail to get a bigger photo
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Back on the coach for the return journey. En route we drove through one of the longest tunnels in Algeria which is 9 km long. It was almost unbelievable in this long tunnel, our police escort managed to stop traffic coming in the other direction, so that we could travel down the wrong side of the road, and hence pass all other traffic.
A lovely evening with cocktails and then dinner outside watching the lights of the port fade into the distance with a new moon. Then a restful Name that Movie with Martin and the Romanian pianist George .