April 9th
Our last sea day. Easter Sunday and we had received Easter bunnies and 2 painted eggs the previous night. We took the painted eggs in to the restaurant to eat for breakfast on the assumption that they were hard boiled eggs, but eventually ascertained that they were in fact sugar coated chocolate eggs.
Lectures during the day included Archaelogy in Polynesia by Mila. Coral reefs by Lea, Biodiversity - the species of life by Anthony and a talk by chef Pia.
It was too hot to sit out on deck by 10.30!. Had lunch , which included a yummy chocolate cake, with Anthony Smith, a sculptor come part time Expedition Guide.
In the evening we enjoyed the wine, a good St. Estephe that we had received from the hotel director the previous evening as an apology for the TV fiasco. I went to Liars Club afterwards, but it relied on images on the screen, so was lost on me. Another bad sleep night with a rattling TV and bad hot sweats
April 10th
A morning at sea. A talk by Damon on manta rays and fish. Arrived off Manihi soon after noon. A very long zodiac ride ashore and then a welcome with drums and a dozen young girls dancing before being given a short walk around the not over attractive village - 600 souls in all - by the village nurse.
Not one of Silverseas better choices of stopping place, and also an example as to how and why someone in charge needs to make decisions to cancel a trip. It was clear here that the tide would be out and that there would be no swimming possible. The shore agent, the local guide and Silversea all should have known and never embarked on this futile exercise.
Manihi is a beautiful oval-shaped coral atoll surrounded by a necklace of islands with white sandy beaches that stretch indefinitely. Long neglected by visitors, this island is however one of the most beautiful ones you can find in French Polynesia. Situated 400 miles northwest from Bora Bora in the Tuamotu Archipelago, Manihi has a very small population of around 650 people. Nothing comparing to its marine population! Manta rays, reef sharks and multiple fish species such as the famous butterfly fish all living together in majestic coral reefs. The lack of tourism allowed nature to keep its untouched beauty. Many protected areas have been established and given its geography, not everyone has the opportunity to visit this atoll.
This lagoon holds another precious secret. Its waters have the perfect temperature, salinity and brightness to be home to Tahiti’s most important black pearl farm. Its pearl production is particularly renowned since the 1960’s. You can visit the farms that border the lagoon and meet the passionate local producers. On the atoll, tiny shops among the stilt houses, notably in the village of Turipaoa, sell these beautiful jewels shaped by the sea.
We then had to be transported by zodiac across the atoll entrance to ger to the beach part of land. This was a 25 minute walk through amazing coconut palms, a step back in time; we were glad not to have waited for the one shuttle bus. After the uplifting walk we were very disappointed that it was impossible to swim at the beach, the tide being a long, long way out!. We wandered out for 10 minutes or so, still hardly ankle deep. But a group of 6 colourful musicians plus a refreshing coconut to drink partly made up for it.
We chose to walk back but the heavens opened and we were truly drenched by the time we got back to the zodiac. Dmitri was in charge of the shore operation at the zodiacs, and had no idea how many punters were still out on the island.
Invited to dine with the captain , Paivlin Koev when we returned to the ship, gone 4.. Had a briefing on the plans for Tuesday, then a quick drink - needed it after another dose of Marieka. - before going in to meet the captain. 8 of us; Sir Keith and Lady Sabina Whitson ( HSBC and N Z estate!), Elsa and Victor and 2 others from Manchester. I thought Pavlińs views on expedition staff quarters on the Silver Endeavour were harsh!. The dinner lasted for 3 hours, a trifle too long!
click on a thumbnail to get a bigger photo
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