The legendary 660 km dirt track right through the wild heart of the Kimberley, is one of the Kimberley's main attractions."The Gibb" takes you from Broome/Derby on the west coast to Kununurra/Wyndham on WA's eastern border.through a spectacular landscape of intensely coloured ranges, dramatic gorges and lush rock pools and waterfalls.
The entire Gibb River Road and the country it crosses is private land. Yes, somebody actually owns these unbelievable gorges and waterfalls... (Nothing in life is fair, is it?) Some of the owners even charge you an entry fee to see their gorge. Camping is only allowed in designated campgrounds, usually at a price.You need to get to the campgrounds early if you want a nice spot, and if you think you were going to enjoy peace and solitude, think again. During the season a very steady stream stream of four wheel drives and campervans makes its way along the Gibb River Road.
Fuel, tyre and mechanical repairs, supplies and accommodation are available
at several points along the way. If you run into trouble, whatever kind of trouble
that may be, there will be help. You'll never be alone. So you really don't
need to be nervous about this trip. Anyone can do it. And as far as scenery
goes, the country along the Gibb River Road is of course still the same. The
Kimberley ranges are awesome, and you will love it here!
Permits/Permission. You don't need a permit to travel on the Gibb River Road, the Kalamburu Road or the Mitchell Plateau Road.However, you do need a permit if you want to enter the Kalamburu Aboriginal community, and you have to organise it before you leave. Any of the Kimberley tourist information centres can do that for you, or you can do it online at the Department of Indigenous Affairs.All the land either side of the Gibb River Road and other roads in the area is private land. If you want to go of exploring on any tracks other than the sign posted gorge access tracks you have to get permission form the owners!Any travel on roads across Aboriginal land requires a permit.
All the attractions that make the Gibb River Road a worthwhile drive are on side tracks, and pretty much all of those are strictly four wheel drive only. Most of the Gibb River Road is heavily corrugated, enough to rattle your teeth out. It gets graded regularly which certainly improves it, but that never lasts long. However, as long as you make sure that all you gear is stowed securely (lids on tightly etc.) the corrugations are only a nuisance. So is the dust.. However, since all the steep sections where the Gibb River Road climbs across the ranges have been sealed this isn't really a problem any more. Dust is always a problem on the Gibb River Road, but don't let it tempt you into overtaking a slower vehicle unless you can actually see the road ahead. You should also drive with your headlights on so the vehicle you are approaching and any oncoming traffic have a chance to see you. The Gibb River Road is an important transport road for the cattle industry. You will come across many road trains, trucks with three, four or more trailers. And they move. The Gibb River Road is famous for its sharp rocks and has a bad reputation for shredding tyres. You will need to take at least two spare tyres (and ideally extra tubes, repair kit and air compressor), but I know of many people who ruined three or more. That can be avoided, you know? I don't have much faith in any of the tyre pressure theories. Some people say run your tyres soft (so they give a bit when in contact with rocks), some they run them hard (so the side walls are kept straight and don't come in contact with rocks). My theory is, if you run them soft you ruin them because the side walls aren't straight, and if you run them hard you ruin them because they don't give. But there is one method to prevent punctures that works without fail: go slow. If you dislike changing tyres (and paying for them) as much as I do just keep your speed down at 60 kph or less on the rocky sections. It will greatly improve your chances. (Not saying I guarantee you won't get a puncture some other way...) I have yet to change a tyre on the Gibb River Road, or any dirt road for that matter. I have yet to overtake another vehicle there, too... ;-)
Camping/Accommodation. Camping is only allowed in designated areas as everything along the Gibb River Road is private land. The facilities vary. Again, more details can be found on the page with the route description, and also on the page where I (will) talk about the gorges and attractions of the Gibb River Road.Several cattle stations offer accommodation, and there are also a few resort style wilderness camps. Some of them are mentioned in the route description, others are further off the beaten track.
| km | Comments (D: diesel available, U: unleaded) |
| 0 | The turn-off to the Gibb River Rd. from the Great Northern Highway. It's just a few kilometres outside Derby. We start counting from here |
| 16 | Birdwood Downs Station. Working cattle station offering camping, accommodation and tours. |
| 62 | The first part of the Gibb River Road is sealed, but the bitumen ends here. |
| 119 | Tunnel Creek Road turn-off. Turn right here to visit Tunnel Creek National Park and Windjana Gorge National Park. |
| 190 | Lennard Gorge turn-off. |
| 200 | Mount Hart Lodge |
| 204 | March Fly Glen Picnic Area. Suitable for camping. This section of the road is sealed (no dust!). |
| 210 | Bell Creek Crossing. Stop for a break at the bottom of the Leopold Range. |
| 214 | Bell Gorge and Silent Grove turn-off. Bell Gorge is probably the best known attraction along the Gibb River Road. CALM operates two campgrounds here. One is for bush campers, the other one has flush toilets, showers, barbecues, generators are allowed and there is even a phone. |
| 223 | D Imintji Store. Here you can get some general goods, refill the tank (diesel only), refill the gas bottles and put fresh ice in the esky. You can get hot food or an ice-cream, and the mechanic can patch your tyre and do some basic repairs on your vehicle. |
| 253 | Mornington Wilderness Camp turn-off. The camp is another 90 km from the turn-off on a very rough road. |
| 267 | Adcock Gorge Turn-off. No camping. |
| 284 | Galvans Gorge. No camping. |
| 299 | D U Mt. Barnett Roadhouse. Fuel (unleaded and diesel), drinking water, ice, toilets, showers, laundry, small store and take-aways. |
| 299 | Manning Gorge. Manning Gorge is owned by Mt. Barnett station and they make the most of that fact. A fee is charged for entry (A$ 12.50 as of 2006), but at least that fee includes the use of their camping facilities. (Toilets and showers. Generators are allowed, so are camp fires, but wood has to be collected before you get to the roadhouse.) |
| 328 | Barnett River Gorge turn-off. This is one of the precious few places along the Gibb River Road where free bush camping is available |
| 345 | Mt Elizabeth Station turn-off. Offers accommodation and camping 30 km from the main road |
| 407 | Kalumburu Road turn-off. Turn here to get to Kalumburu or to the Mitchell Plateau. (The Drysdale River Homestead is 60 km from the turn-off and is the next place to get diesel or unleaded.) |
| 476 | Ellenbrae Station turn-off. This station did not offer accommodation or camping in 2006, they did in 2007, and who knows if they'll open in 2008. Check with the tourist office before you leave. |
| 497 | Durack River crossing. This one can be exciting at the beginning of the season. (Or stop you from going any futher!) |
| 534 | (Jack's Waterhole. Another commercial camping area, but I don't think it is still operating.) |
| 584 | Beautiful lookout over the Cockburn Ranges and the Pentecost River, not to be missed. |
| 591 | Home Valley Station. Accommodation, camping and tours. Very friendly place with an excellent chef! (At least in 2006 he was...) |
| 599 | Pentecost River Crossing. Like the Durack River this is one of the rivers that can be rather exciting to cross early in the season. Beware, this is serious crocodile country. |
| 624 | D U El Questro Station turn-off. Huge and rather expensive tourism operation aimed at the high end market. General store, diesel, unleaded, accommodation, steakhouse, bar. Camping is available, at a price. |
| 635 | Emma Gorge turn-off. Belongs to El Questro. Used to be lush, green and shady, but has been severely damaged during the 2006 wet season. The walk is very open now, but the gorge is still beautiful. Camping available. |
| 660 End of Gibb River Rd. at Wyndham/Kununurra Intersection |
Birdwood Downs Mount Hart Wilderness Lodge is 50 km off the Gibb River Road, and the turn off is about 200 km from Derby. The prices are fair, and they really look after their visitors. Camping is now available (as of 2008) at $20 pp. The campground is 800 m north of the homestead and has good facilities, including a small kitchen and laundry. Campers can use the restaurant facilities and licensed bar, but not the homestead grounds and gardens. Surrounded by stunning geological features, spectacular scenery, abundant wildlife, and rare flora and fauna (including resident dingoes), Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge is a 10 acre oasis of beautiful lush tropical gardens situated alongside the majestic Barker River. Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge offers comfortable, and stylish boutique outback accommodation in two traditional 'Kimberley-style' heritage homesteads, as well as some camping facilties.Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge has camping facilities available located 800metres north of Mt Hart Homesteads and Gardens alongside the magnificent Barker River. The campsite is located in a beautiful shady area and is only a minutes walk away from excellent swimming, picnic and fishing areas. Yellow-man Gorge, Mt Matthew Gorge and Talbot Gorge are also only short drives away from the campsite. Three course dinners, fully cooked breakfasts, and bar lunches are also available for campers (at an additional cost). Campers also have access to the licensed bar facilities at Mt Hart (between designated hours). However, the gardens and homesteads are only accessible to accommodated guests.The campsite features toilets, hot showers, a small kitchen with BBQ facilities, laundry, clotheslines, plus a communal fire pitt.Pre-bookings are essential.
Relax and experience the strong sense of aboriginal and pastoral history, whilst enjoying warm bush hospitality, and gourmet country cuisine. The magnificent Mt Matthew, Talbot and Yellow-man Gorges are only short drives away from the homesteads.
Bell Gorge Camp CALM
Mornington Wilderness Camp. The Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary is a must see. It's a bit off the beaten track (90 km off the Gibb River Road to be precise), which makes it even more attractive. There are ten safari-style tents, which are ideal for those not inclined towards roughing it. Each is spacious and well furnished with a large double bed, ensuite bathroom, bench space and drawers for the luggage, a fan, bedside tables and lamps, as well as plump pillows and cosy doonas that keep you warm on those cold desert mornings. Blissfully, these tents hardly qualify as camping. Raised above the rushes of Annie's Creek on wooden decking, the tents are designed to maximise air flow and keep the temperatures down. They also provide an intensely close view of nature. If you sit still for long enough, you are sure to see countless varieties of birds, lizards, and even the odd fresh water crocodile splashing about in the water below.This window into the wilderness is the selling point of the property. Owned by the not for profit Australian Wildlife Conservancy with the aim of preserving some of the threatened local wildlife, Mornington Wilderness Camp is part of a 312,000 hectare wildlife sanctuary.
Mt. Barnett station
Barnett River Gorge - free bush camping
Mt Elizabeth Station
Drysdale
River Homestead We are not a hotel, not a motel, not a farm
stay, not a bed and breakfast, not a roadhouse, but we ARE an Australian outback
mixture of all these things. While we are a general service center, even more
important to your fun & comfort is our Beer Garden, "Kimberley North".
Offering shaded tables, cold beer, good food and on cold nights a log fire all
combine to ensure it is the hub of the North Kimberley. Shop, small general
store. Fuel, diesel and unleaded. Accommodation. Riverside Camp area, beside
a lovely big waterhole on the Drysdale. Homestead Camp area, with top class
ablution facilities. Licensed Dining room offers evening meals and breakfast.
The beer garden offers lunch and snacks during the day. Licensed bar. Vehicle,
tyre and welding repairs. Small stock of new tyres, batteries etc. Scenic airplane
flights to the Mitchell Falls, Prince Regent River and magnificent coastline.
We do not take any advance camping bookings at all, for either camp. The
reason for this is because so many people like or need to alter the pre-planned
progress of their trip. Then due to a lack of mobile coverage or public phones
we found they were unable to tell us of this alteration in their plans. We had
people turning up days early, days late and not at all, the booking system was
a disaster! Payment for either camp area can be made at the shop 8 am to 5 pm
daily and at the Homestead bar / reception during the evening hours of 5 pm
to 8 pm daily. Check in and registration please, prior to setting up camp, thanks.
Ellenbrae Station probably not open
Home Valley Station. My favourite place at the moment is right on the Gibb River Road, just on the other side of the Pentecost River Crossing. So far I haven't heard a bad word about Home Valley Station. Everybody loves it. It's a very rustic, down-to-earth place, and it's obvious that a lot of love and thought went into everything. Home Valley Station has only been open to tourists in its current incarnation since 2006. Maybe it's their own enthusiasm for their new venture, maybe it's the fact that they know they need the word of mouth, in any way, they make you feel warmly welcome the moment you walk in. Every single visitor seems to matter to them. (A nice contrast to El Questro, where it's obvious that unless you're a millionaire they don't really care if you stop by or not...) It might seem a weird thing to point out, but the bathrooms at the campground are awesome. You'll see what I mean when you get there! The "Grass Castles" (luxury tents) overlooking the Bindoola Creek are magic, but even putting up your own little tent along the creek has plenty of magic to it. (And some mozzies.) The food was fantastic last time I checked, but chefs change often in this part of the world. Tell us below if it's still the same delicious brand of Kimberley camp cooking meets five star cuisine.
El Questro Station
http://www.kimberleyaustralia.com/gibb-river-road.html