Porto Novo, Cape Verde

Porto Novo is found on Sao Antonio, the northwesternmost of the Cape Verde Islands, and is the island’s largest town with 17,400 inhabitants. The port is located on Sao Antonio’s southeastern and arid side, and began as a fishing village and only in 2005 it was recognized as a city. Porto Novo's harbour is the main link to the other islands in Cape Verde and the outside world. A monument above the port shows a woman waving goodbye to those emigrating from the Cape Verde Islands. Roads leading out of Porto Novo have to either go along the impressive northeast coast or cross the island’s mountains through a rugged and even more spectacular landscape. The third highest peak of the Cape Verde islands at 1,979 meters is the Tope de Coroa to the west of Porto Novo.

We went ashore by zodiac before 9am. Eleven minibuses with about eight in each then set out on the Authentic Santa Antao tour of just under eight hours. Drove along coastal roads cut through volcanic rock to Paul, with a couple of photo stops, before stopping for a walk past Ribera Grande. The walk was uphill along the road , it was steep, humid and strenuous. Then we drove back, downhill, the same stretch of road to a rum tasting.

Grogue, place. Enjoyed the macayuna, mango and honey flavoured ones, 18 percent proof as opposed to the real thing without flavours which was 48%. Grogue is a Cape Verdean alcoholic beverage, an aguardente made from sugarcane. Its production is fundamentally artisanal, and nearly all the sugarcane is used in the production of grogue. The cane is processed in a press known as a trapiche. Grogue is the basis for a Cape Verdean cocktail known as ponche (derived from the English word "punch"), which also includes lime and molasses. Grogue is also used as a base for medicinal preparations, with the addition of herbs such as common rue, rosemary, or anise. Grogue is made by an old traditional way and because of this there are a lot of different qualities on the market. The government of Cabo Verde is now busy with a European company to introduce grogue on the European markets. This will be a fully controlled grogue of the best quality by the name 'Grogue Official'.

Then we drove some distance to a hotel for lunch. It was a bad buffet for 90 of us packed into a room which was not big enough. The whole covered veranda was awash with water from the continuing heavy rain. The views would have been magnificent in good weather. We left after more than an hour and drove through Ribeira Grande and then climbed 18 km to the centre of the island and then another 18 km back down to Porto Novo, with just one quick stop. Relentless rain and in the clouds meant that we never got to actually see the view. Happily we managed the same trip a few days later, and the views were spectacular.

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On our return to Porto Novo a few days later, the weather was much better. We covered essentially the same route, but this time got the views. Also had a stop in the centre of Paul

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