Rising in the heart of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, the archipelago of Iles-de-la-Madeleine offers diverse wildlife and sweeping coastal scenery. The somewhat precarious location of these 12 islands, in the middle of the world's most immense estuary, means they have historically been something of a ship graveyard. The craggy red rocks that emerge suddenly from the waves here have gashed the hulls of countless ships in times gone by. A gang of six pretty lighthouses share the task of warning of the islands' treacherous waters, while simultaneously providing a scenic twinkle amid the copper-coloured cliffs and coastal archways.
Acadian French accents ring out on the shores and, despite their location, the Iles-de-la-Madeleine form part of Quebec's province. Historically cut off by thick ice, they have developed a distinct culture and character of their own. The 55 mile-long stretch of Route 199 provides the backbone of the island, tying the seven inhabited landforms together, along with a chain of undulating sand dunes. Each of the islands has its own character and profile to explore – offering everything from windswept beaches to sheltered lagoons and rolling emerald hills. Port du Millerand's flotilla of fishing boats reap the rewards of the location, bringing home vast hauls, so local restaurants can serve up the freshest lobster, mussels and crab.
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"Begin your island acquaintance at Havre-aux-Maisons Island, known for its remarkable bare terrain. The scarcity of trees is due to extensive lumbering during the last century. The island's smooth landscape stands out sharply against its worn red cliffs.
Stop at the economuseum Fumoir d'Antan, a typical smokehouse that showcases the last remnant of what was once an important industry in the region. As you taste smoked herring, get a sense of what it takes to produce a savory smoked seafood such as herring, mackerel, salmon and scallops as this smokehouse has been doing for more than three generations.
Travel to the end of Chemin de la Pointe-Basse to reach the Chemin des Échoueries. Visit Cap Alright lighthouse to admire spectacular views over the grey cliffs of Plaisance Bay and the outline of Entrée Island. The 1828 lighthouse itself is worth a lingering look, as it is the last lighthouse to be built on the islands and remains in its original state. Next, pause at Dune du Sud for a chance to appreciate views of the beach and the steep, red cliffs sculpted by the sea.
Travel to Havre-Aubert Island and discover the beauty of the sand dune as you cross the Havre aux Basques road. There is much beauty to be appreciated outdoors amid the villages and landscapes of the islands. A star attraction on Havre-Aubert is the historical fishing village of La Grave and its Historical Site. The village, which takes its name from the French word la grève, meaning pebbly or sandy terrain, features many of its original structures and still carries the spirit of a small community with charming bistros and interesting clothing and jewelry boutiques. Enjoy free time to explore and be sure to visit the Artisans du sable museum, where sand from the Islands is transformed into unique sculptures.
The guided tour concludes at Le Site d'Autrefois, where visitors may discover fishermen's traditional lifestyle. Follow fishermen Claude Bourgeoin, a former captain who can show you the ins and outs of his village and its history.
Next up is Cap Hérissé lighthouse, a place to stop and appreciate why this seaside landscape has earned its name. Indented by spectacularly steep and jagged cliffs, this spot offers one of the most striking examples of cliffs sculpted by the sea. Every year, the erosion claims an average of two feet off shore, causing some alarm for the locals but a stunning natural vista for all those who visit. Return to the ship"
The highlight of this tour for us was the stop at the smokehouse
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