The Island of Mozambique lies off northern Mozambique, between the Mozambique Channel and Mossuril Bay. Prior to 1898, it was the capital of colonial Portuguese East Africa. With its rich history and sandy beaches, the Island of Mozambique is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Mozambique's fastest growing tourist destinations. It has a permanent population of approximately 14,000 people.
The island in itself is not very big, about 3 km long and between 200 and 500 metres wide. Most historical buildings are at the island's northern end. The majority of the residents live in reed houses in Makuti Town at the southern end of the island.
The Portuguese established a port and naval base in 1507 and built the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte in 1522, now considered the oldest European building in the Southern Hemisphere. During the 16th century, the Fort São Sebastião was built, and the Portuguese settlement (now known as Stone Town) became the capital of Portuguese East Africa. The island also became an important missionary centre
. It withstood Dutch attacks in 1607 and 1608 and remained a major post for the Portuguese on their trips to India. It saw the trading of slaves, spices, and gold. Apart from the ancient fortifications, only half of the town is stone-built. The hospital, a majestic neo-classical building constructed in 1877 by the Portuguese, with a garden decorated with ponds and fountains, was repainted white after the Mozambican Civil War. For many years, it was the biggest hospital south of the Sahara.
With the opening of the Suez Canal, the island's fortunes waned. In 1898, the capital was moved to Lourenço Marques (now Maputo) on the mainland. By the middle of the 20th century, the new harbour of Nacala took most of the remaining business.
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The Fort
The island’s northern end is dominated by the massive Fort of São Sebastião – the oldest complete fort still standing in sub-Saharan Africa and, arguably, the finest military building on the continent. Construction began in 1558 and took 62 years. The fort has withstood numerous Dutch, British and Omani bids to diminish it. While the structure remains in a pretty unkempt state, with little explanatory information, it size and aura, along with the views from its battlements, are awe-inspiring.
Just beyond the fort, at the island’s tip and accessed via the fort entrance, is the tiny Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte, built in 1522 and the oldest European building in the southern hemisphere.
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And a sail on a dhow to a sandy beach
Boarding off the stern of the Discoverer, we packed like sardines onto several dhows, and had about an hour under sail to reach the island. Arriving at a beach we walked across the island to a tidal river estuary where Chris enjoyed a swim in the warm water.
What the dhows gained in simplicity, they lost in the ability to tack - in other words perfect for driving with the monsoon from Arabia, but not so good at short tacks.
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Drinks at Rickshaws
It was a hot day and the break for drinks at Rickshaws was welcome. . The cafe was right on the sea, and had a nice breeze. The hotel looked good too, but we did not see any rooms.
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