Valparaíso is a major city and seaport. Greater Valparaíso is the second largest metropolitan area in the country. Valparaíso is 112 northwest of Santiago. The city played an important geopolitical role in the second half of the 19th century, when the city served as a major stopover for ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans by rounding Cape Horn. Valparaíso mushroomed during its golden age, as a magnet for European immigrants, when the city was known by international sailors as "Little San Francisco" and "The Jewel of the Pacific".
In 2003, the historic quarter of Valparaíso was declared UNESCO World Heritage Site. Examples of Valparaíso's past glory include Latin America's oldest stock exchange, the continent's first volunteer fire department, Chile's first public library, and the oldest Spanish language newspaper in continuous publication in the world, El Mercurio de Valparaíso.
The second half of the twentieth century was not kind to Valparaíso, as many wealthy families abandoned the city. The opening of the Panama Canal and reduction in ship traffic dealt a staggering blow to Valparaíso’s port-based economy. However, over the past 15 years, the city has staged an impressive renaissance, attracting many artists and cultural entrepreneurs who have set up shop in the city's hillside historic districts.
At half past ten on the evening of November 19, 1822 Valparaíso experienced a violent earthquake that left the city in ruins; of the 16,000 residents, casualties included at least 66 adults and 12 children. Among them was the Liberator of Chile Bernardo O'Higgins who was sleeping in the governor's mansion and died under its rubble. The next day a meteor trail was visible from Quillota to Valparaíso, seen as a religious experience for much of the population.
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The ship offered a (paid) excursion to some vineyards, mainly to get us off the ship during the changeover day. Only Michael and Kathy took up the offer with us. So we had a select little group of the 4 of us plus a charming guide, Veronica, and a driver. Both vineyards that we were taken to - Casas del Bosque and Vina Mar - were well set up bodegas. We had a tour in each and a tasting. Vina Mar was also a very nice boutique hotel, in which it would have been rather pleasant to stay.
Casas del Bosque Vineyard
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Vina Mar Vineyard
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Then back to the ship and a new bunch of passengers. The cruise terminal at Valparaiso is accustomed to handling cruise ships, so was much better than the bulk of commercial ports that the Explorer usually has to moor at. 13 passengers of the last leg stayed on, including us and Michael and Kathy who went round the vineyards with us. Goodbye Valparaiso, Hello Ushuaia
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The voyage on Silversea Explorer in South America